このA-2は、軍に計5回もの納入を果たしたラフウエア社が2度目に納入した言わばセカンドモデルにあたる。大型の襟と前立てを無視した左右対称の身頃を持つ型紙を強引に前立てにしてしまうなど、この頃から同社の特徴がジャケットに現れている。当時生産された実物のメインマテリアルは調達の都合からか、ラセットブラウンのゴートスキン製であったが、ワイルドなフォルムを持つラフウェア社のA-2にはやはり野生馬の革が良く似合う。革はイタリア産の原皮を、植物の樹皮から抽出した渋液で数ヶ月に渡って丹念に鞣した後、革の仕上げにはアニリン染料を擦り込んでいる。使用感や経年変化で革の表情が変化を遂げるのは、鞣しに掛ける時間と比例すると言っても過言では無く、長い時間渋液に浸されたこの革も劇的な変化を遂げるだろう。

 

 

 

 

U. S. ARMY AIR FORCES

JACKET, FLYING, SUMMER / Type A-2 “CONTRACT No. W535 AC18091 BUZZ RICKSON CLOTHING CO. ANILINE DYED CASEIN FINISHED”

 

 

 

 

 

BUZZ RICKSON’S

No. BR80528 / Type A-2 “CONTRACT No. W535 AC18091 BUZZ RICKSON CLOTHING CO. ANILINE DYED CASEIN FINISHED”

 

PRICE : ¥138,000 (+tax)

SIZE : 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44

COLOR : 01) R/BROWN (NO STENCIL) , 02) R/BROWN (COLOR STENCIL)

MATERIAL : Bronco Hide

TANNING : Vegetable

FINISH : Aniline Hand Casein

FASTENER : Talon Mil Specs Nickel Finished

NECK HOOK : Solid Brass Chrome Finished

SNAP BUTTON : Brass Oxidized Black Ball Stud Type

LABEL : Buzz Rickson Clothing Co.

 

 

This A-2 is the second of the five A-2 contracts, or the so-called second model, Rough Wear delivered to the U.S. Forces. The characteristics of Rough Wear can be seen in its jackets from around this time, including a large collar and paper patterns of a symmetric bodice without plackets. While the A-2s of this contract number produced at the time were made of russet brown goatskin, mustang hide was compatible for the wild form of Rough Wear’ s A-2s. The leather is Italian rawhide carefully soaked for several months in astringent liquid extracted from the bark of trees and applied with dyes by hand by master craftsmen. The A-2 standard color, russet brown, has an infinite variety of colors. The russet brown of this jacket is a highly attractive reddish brown with the richness of cognac that has matured in an aging barrel for many years.